I seem to lose fish that bite a spinner blade more than any other bait. Anyone have any tips out there as
to how to land a bigger percentage of blade fish? I assume that my hook is tearing a bigger hole in the mouth and
then falling out, but I'm not sure.

That's why I don't use spinner baits x( har. I really do miss a lot on blades, trailer or no trailer. It's a little harder to get the right hookset like you need to from a float tube too. If you don't have a trailer, rig on with a 2/0 gammie trailer hook. Use surgical tubing to hold it on. Just cut 1/4" of tubing and put it over the eye of the trailer hook, then slide it on the main hook. This time of year a lot of those blade bites are spawning fish that are just smacking it with their head too. If you get bumped by one, try going back and throwing something else at that spot.

Thanks. I'll give it a try. I was using trailer hooks for a while, but I wasn't getting bit at all. As soon as I took the trailers off, I started getting bit again, but losing fish. It's kind of funny. But I will go back to trying trailers again.

I have found that a soft tipped rod has helped me a lot. I use a 6'6 fiberglass crank bait rod, and don't loose half as many fish as I used to. I also never use a trailer hook, just my personal preference.

There seems to be two issues--(1)hooking a fish and (2)losing it once it's hooked. I do miss some as they either bit the blades only or just nipped it like Rob said. As for actually unbuttoning fish once they are stuck, I can only remember one--maybe. For me, the spinnerbait is a high-percentage fish lander. I don't use a trailer hook nor a plastic trailer. Now, rattletraps are another thing...

I fish a rod that is pretty stiff to stick them but a tad forgiving (an old fenwick HMG that's about 10 yrs. old). I'm considering Loomis' spinnerbait series when it's time for a new one--soon. So I don't know what to offer to up the percentages for you, sorry.

EDIT: Another thought...are the fish jumping when they unbutton? If so, I keep my rod tip low to keep them from getting airborn.


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Hey guys,

I just saw something new from a friend. He extends the blade hook shank by cutting it part way and then crimping 300# or 500 # mono to both ends thus making the hook longer. Now you don't need a trailer hook. He said this also helps the fish from throwing the hook because the mono is more forgiving than the steel shank. I'm going to try it and see if it helps...stay tuned.

Fongster,

I usually try to keep the rod tip low to prevent the jumps too.

I think it's really the tearing of a larger hole in the mouth some how. I've noticed that some of the fish I do land, I land just barely because as soon as I lip them, the hook just falls out. Not always, but enough of the time. Maybe my drag is set too tight. I usually keep it pretty tight.

=IT CAN BE SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS THE PAINT OR THE CHROME ON THE HOOK. CHECK AND MAKE SURE THAT THE BARB HAS SOME KIND OF GAP IN IT. YOU CAN'T HOLD ONTO A FISH WITHOUT A BARB. IF YOU SWING WHEN YOU GET BIT I BET YOU'LL HAVE A LOT OF HEARTACHES. KEEP WINDING TILL THE ROD LOADS UP AND THEN SWING. KEEP STEADY PRESSURE ON THE FISH FROM THERE ON AND YOU WON'T HAVE A PROBLEM. THIS IS USUALLY A HIGH PERCENTAGE BAIT ONCE THE FISH IS HOOKED!GOOD LUCK

I would make sure the hook is super sharp, I don't think a trailer is good out here, unless it's stained ( I still don't use them), the bait should look as natural in profile as possible. Don't swing on the hookset, a small jerk/pull while cranking like a mother is key. Keep cranking him all the way to the boat, it's not very exciting, but they will throw the weight of a spinnerbait right out .....12-15lb won't break on smaller fish (if you re-tie enough), the 4lb. plus fish don't tear in the mouth like the smaller fish so you can play them out if necessary (just stay as tight as possible....reel against your drag, if any), and when they do jump.....crank even faster! Completely different ball game than light-line stuff.I think I'm going to braid for no stretch too.....

FYI... I have found that the best way to rig a trailer hook is to NOT put the surgical tubing over the eye of the hook, but to put the hook on and the place the piece of tubing on the hook afterwards. This will let the trailer hook swing freely. I found that when I did it the other way the trailer hook tended to get pushed out to the side causing my bait to track to the side. Since making the change, I have had no problems with it. I have also heard more than one "Pro" speak on the subject and have the same results. I just wanted to share what I had learned.

This sounds like a great idea. I will try it next week. If the tubing is to go on after the trailer hook I wonder if the tubing as such is actually needed. Why not just cut a square (not a cylinder) from the tubing and use that instead. For that matter, those who do not have surgical tubing handy could just cut a small square from a large rubber band and push that down over the main hook after the trailer is on. What do you think?
Bob

Thats should work as well. Just be sure that the piece of whatever it is; is not easily pulled through the large eye of the trailer hook. I believe that is why the tubing is used. Hope this helps you out.

I remember reading somewhere that, round plastic disks were used on either side of the eye of the trailer hook. Slide one plastic disk on the hook of the spinner bait, then put the eye of the trailer hook through then sandwich it with another plastic disk. They said you could cut out disks from say, a plastic coffee can lid or something of the like. Might be worth a shot.