Finally got a chance to go up and experiment a bit more with swimbaits for trout. Back in February we tried trolling trap-rigged 3 inch Big Hammers and ended up having great success. When the day was over the 2 swimbaits we had been trolling out-fished the 4 Rapalas we had out with them.

This time it was all swimbaits. We experimented with many different colors and trap rigging techniques. Tried using a needle to thread the line through the bait instead of just letting it hang. At the end we even tried using line up to 15 lb. test and the baits still swam fine but I didn't get a chance to test it against a fish.

We trolled the area around the West side of the island from about 8:00 am to noon. In those four hours we had over 40 hook-ups including one fish that would've easily went over 4 lbs (jumped and broke the leader). We were having problems keeping the fish on which always seems to be a problem trolling for trout but it was worse than normal. One problem is the 4 lb. test we were using for the leader from the main hook to the trap kept breaking - especially when the fish would jump (how the 4+ pounder was lost). A few more trips and some more experimenting and I'm sure we'll have this technique pinned down. Finding the perfect trap hook (we are using a size 6 octopus hook), using heavier line (or maybe heavy flourocarbon) for rigging the trap, etc.

We did however prove to ourselves that the first trip was not a fluke. The trout really seem to like the 3 inch Big Hammers. Pepper Trout and Dorado were the hot colors yesterday with Silver Sardine a close second. Last time Mackerel and Sea Wolf were the hot colors.

We were using 1/4 oz. heads on 4 & 6 lb. main trolling line. With all the hookups we had it was obvious that they were getting down deep enough. Larry's boat is also not the best boat for trolling for trout since it is too fast (even dragging a couple of buckets) - also another reason we may loose more fish than we should. We were using both Super Shad and Darter Heads. Only one fish so far (both trips) has been hooked on the front hook - all others have been on the trap.

http://www.swimbait.com/gallery/photos/001-06.jpg
Pierce's First Rainbow Trout

http://www.swimbait.com/images/trap-rigged-hammers-01.jpg
Trap Rigged 3 inch Big Hammers

40 HOOKUP's, COOL!
I can't wait to try them out on the wild Utah trout! But first:

"At the end we even tried using line up to 15 lb. test"
What was the heaviest test line used on the trap rig that broke? I was thinking of using 8lb. for the leader to the second hook.

Did you see any real advantage to using the needle to thread the line through the bait?

Thanks for sharing!

I'll let you know how it went next week.

Hey Josh! 4lb was useless 6lb was better but not the best, next time we are going to try 12-15mono and 20lb power pro, and the baits that had the internal trap line got bit 8-1 over the non internal!...Larry

That looks like an interesting set-up. I have tried trolling swimbaits before but most of them seem to roll at the speeds I like to troll. Rigging the swimbaits like that would well for the Delta bass and stripers in the winter when it is cold too. Thanks for all the new ideas you brought to mind.

Cody,
I often troll swimbaits for stripers in reservoirs & tuna in the ocean. If you are having trouble w/your baits "rolling" at the speed you are trolling try a heavier head. I successully troll 5" Big Hammers up to 8 or 9 mph using 2.5 oz. heads. Sometimes the heads look rediculous compared to the bait, but once its skimming under the surface all is good.

Because the trout do not seem to be caught on the leadhead hook have you thought about not using a leadhead, threading the leader through the entire swimbait body with a bait threader needle, and using a sliding cone sinker butting against the front of the swimbait. This may only work if your speed is slow enough because, if not, maybe the force of the water would push the bait into a curled position against the hook. (I am only thinking "out loud"; maybe this method makes no sense.) Speaking of speed, do you know if you were able to keep your speed to about 1.5 mph, which, if I recall correctly, is about right for trout (considering that speed should also be adjusted for optimal action of the lure). A given speed can be at the upper limit for getting bites but beyond optimal for avoiding frequent breaking off. Speaking of breaking off, I think that 4# leaders are too light considering that there are 4+ # trout now being caught and that there are likely holdovers larger than that. I use 6# 100% fluorocarbon leader for trout trolling, and maybe even 6+ is ok with fluorocarbon. Regarding getting to the right depth, some trigonometry can be of use. If I recall correctly this is the approximate relationship between line angle to the water, length of line out (LL), and depth of lure (D). Angle 15 deg., D= .2LL; angle 30 deg., D=.5LL; angle 45 deg., D=.7LL. For example, with an angle to the water of 30 deg. to reach fish that are about 10 feet deep you let out about 50 feet of line (.2 x 50 = 10). It is great to see the photo of your son, who seems to be growing very fast. It reminds me of the first trout caught by my two sons, a great way to hook a child on fishing. Sorry for rambling.



Bob

Hey Bob, we have since come up with alternate ideas for the triler hook ine, you kinda neeed a leadhead to act like a keel to keep the bait swimming right. Speed wise like Pete said Its very difficult to get my 24ft cc with a 225hp outboard to go slow, we drag two 5 gallon buckets and the slowest I can go is 2.1 knots and with the wind we were doing 2.4 knots or somewhere around 3mph! but we never had an issue getting bit! distance wise I was setting my two rods back 60-75ft...Larry

Oops. My example of letting out 50 feet of line to troll at a depth of 10 feet should have been for a 15 deg. (not 30 deg) line angle to the water. Sorry for any confusion.

Bob

Pete & Larry, thanks for all the info!
I used the same set up at 2 different lakes in Utah with great success on rainbows, browns & a couple of Lg. Mouth to 5 lbs that inhaled the little baits. I was trolling my little 14 alum. boat at 1.5 mph & the swimbaits looked great. The Hammers way outfished the Rapala & got as many bite's as the Pinn's minnow but I didn't lose as many fish when they jumped as I did on the minnow? I used 8 lb. as the trap rig leader sewn into the bait & didn't have any break. Maybe because the biggest trout was around 18", tons of sm. fish. I did have quite a bit of success w/the 3" Hammer on leadcore, including the longest ripper trout hookup that I have ever had but the hook pulled early in the fight.

I have a couple of photo's but MOF is down?

You can post the pics directly to calfishing.com following these instructions

http://www.calfishing.com/help/posting_pictures.html

Thanks Rob!!
Not pretty but good for now, I've got a bit to learn!

http://www.calfishing.com/dc/user_files/1049.jpg

This was the first time I have fished Lg. Mouth in Utah & was pleasantly surprised, but not prepared.

http://www.calfishing.com/dc/user_files/1050.jpg

http://www.calfishing.com/dc/user_files/1051.jpg

This one is a brown, not that you can tell.

Attachment #1, (.jpg file)
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Is anyone else thinking "Will these trap rigs work in the Salt, where these came from?" I can't tell you how many times I've had 3 to 5" swimbaits come back with rake marks just short of the hook. Who's going to try this out and report back? The Hali's haven't really shown this far N. (Monterey Bay) yet, so someone down S. will have to do my testing. I'm thinking a 8# stinger line would be a good 1st try, then jump to 12# if that works.
Tight lines,
Wade

I am going to try the traprigged swimbaits the next time that I am in the salt. As a preview, after trolling therse for trout the other day I tried casting them at Lake Cachuma and found that the traphook fouled the swimbait once. If this continues to be a problem I will tie some with the traphook farther back.
Bob