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Technique

As I mentioned in "101" there is a sideways component to the wave action. Sneaking up from behind cruising corbina and casting to lead the fish is a proven tactic. However, when there is wind in your face and a strong sideways component to the wave action, the bait often is pushed back to you. The loose line in the water inhibits "feel". In these conditions, it is often better to cast with the wind and wave action. The current pulls your line taut and you get better "feel". As the in and out action of the wave acts on your bait, it swings in an arc high onto the beach, then out into deeper water. During low tide "flats" conditions, the swing is less pronounced and more controlled. This "swing" can only occur when the bait is not anchored by too heavy a weight. Match your sliding sinker size to the degree of wave action so that there can still be controlled movement. Slowly pay out line to cover more corbina holding shoreline. You will find that you can stand well up the beach from your prey and still effectively feel your weight. Use this as your primary technique when there is pronounced side current.

Notice in the first picture, that there is a pair of corbina feeding on a sand crab bed. From the edge of the water (where it transitions from water to sand) imagine a line running parallel to the beach. In picture #2, the wave has receded BUT THE CORBINA ARE ON THE SAME SPOT. That is how far from the water's edge that the bait must be placed. Why? Regardless of wave position, the corbina stay at the buffet table and continue feeding.

When your bait drifts off the productive zone, wind in and re-cast. The bait must be placed where the fish are feeding. When this is done, the chances of getting a bite soar. Keep a low profile by kneeling and/or backing away from the fish's field of view. Keep your rod low; aim it at the point where your line enters the water. Serve the bait to the fish; don't make them come and find it.

These photos represent low tide flats conditions. Flats' fishing lends itself more readily to "sight fishing".

When there is more slope to the beach like during middle to high tide, current and wave action exert greater force. There is more "erosion" and often, bigger sand crabs living deeper in the sand are dislodged. They are sucked out into deeper water. The productive zone becomes less distinct and covers more area during high motion periods. The fish spend less time eating and more time swimming in and out. Also they can't stay over the beds since the beds are covered/exposed as the wave rushes in and recedes. The fish will move in then dash out with the wave. Since the fish are spending more time in deeper water, fish deeper when the tide is higher. The principle of serving the bait to the fish vs. making the fish come to the bait still applies.

Consider using circle hooks. I haven't used them because I've had good success with the egg hooks but with the way corbina dine-n-dash, the circle hooks should work well. Also, use fluorocarbon leaders. If you find them too expensive, go with fluorocarbon line for leader. I use Seaguar Carbon Pro.
When the corbina takes the bait, set the hook like the fly fishers do. Holding the line in your off hand like the sinew of a bow (with the rod being the bow), pull line in as you sweep the rod. The jerking hook set is not what is needed or wanted in light line fishing. Sweep and set.

Be forewarned: The size 8 hook will often only penetrate skin - not going through bone or cartilage. It is JUST big enough to wrap around a lip and on an ideal hook-set this is what happens. However, many times the hook only pokes through some skin. Pulling hard will tear the hook out of the skin and you watch the fish swim away.

When using front drag spinning reels, you will have already set the drag to a very light pressure to accommodate the 4 to 6 pound line that I think works best. So holding the line between your fingers gives a bit tighter drag for the hook set. I use the Shimano Spirex 2000R with the micro-adjustable "Fightin' Drag", a rear drag spinning reel. I keep it adjusted at what I call the "strike" position (just like a lever drag reel) then back it off quickly for "fighting".

Fight your fish from the water's edge (at least) to keep people and dogs from walking into your line. Wade out if needed. Let the fish run against the drag. Keep the rod tip up to take advantage of the spring action it provides. Pulling hard on light line will result in lost fish. You've worked hard to get the fish on; don't lose it now! Corbina have an unmistakable rhythm when swimming. It is sort of a snaky motion. Enjoy it!

Reel the fish all the way onto the sand. Until it is beached, do not touch the fish, hook, or line. I've lost fish in that last second when I incorrectly grabbed the leader (only to have the fish give a final head shake).

Trophy hunting requires spending lots of time on the water. The stealthier you can be the better your chances are. Choose baits that are the size they are eating. Place the bait where the corbina can see it. Cast to active fish. Fish ideal conditions. Use a light drag setting while fighting the corbina. Work the fish onto the sand. After all, it's just bait fishing. With these additional details anyone can catch colossal corbina!

Good Tackle to Try

Berkley Lightning Shock Spinning Reels
Shimano Sahara Spinning Reel - 2500 size
Maxima Ultragreen Line
Egg Sinkers
Gamakatsu Finesse Wide Gap Hooks
 
Copyright © Robert Belloni 1997-2012. All Rights Reserved.
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